It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.

--Ernest Hemingway

The Plan

I am not a 'touring cyclist' - not that there's anything wrong with touring cyclists. I consider myself to be a 'roadie'--if it can't fit into a jersey pocket, then it doesn't come along for the ride. So when you picture me biking in Ireland don't think about panniers and saddle bags and back packs. There will be no tents, sleeping bags nor camp stoves anywhere near my bike.

The plan is to rent a car so that I can drive about the island and ride in much the same way that I would at home. If all goes according to the vision, my life over the next 14 days will fall into the following routine: drive to an area, ride, hike, eat massive amounts of food, drink Guinness (amounts may vary), sleep, repeat.

The idea for this trip is to be fairly flexible; it'll be a bit by the seat of my bib shorts. Here's the best I can do for an itinerary:

> Fly into Dublin on Aug 13
> Connemara (northwest of Galway)
>Inishmore (the largest of the Aran Islands)
>The Burren and the fabled Cliffs of Moher
>The Dingle Peninsula
>The Iveragh Peninsula (Ring of Kerry)
>The Beara Peninsula
>Fly out of Dublin on Aug 28

I've perhaps saved the BEST FOR LAST! From Aug 21-23, I'll be following the three-day Tour of Ireland. I'll watch Stage 1 on the Category One Mount Leinster climb, take in Stage 2 on The Vee, a Cat. 2 climb and watch the last stage in Cork which finishes with a with three-loop city street circuit including the 23% gradient climb of St. Patrick's Hill.

Oh, almost forgot to mention that seven-time Tour de France Champ LANCE ARMSTRONG and 10-time TdeF stage winner MARK CAVENDISH will be riding the Tour of Ireland. It doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

So come back to this little blog often to read about my adventures with my bike on the Emerald Isle. And please, if you're reading this stuff, leave me a comment; it's nice to know that people are out there checking this stuff out.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Arrival or is that lavirrA

Ok people, click in to those pedals, because here we go. I'm in IRELAND! And it's the real deal too; I'm typing away here in the massive common kitchen in the hostel (an old church building - so picture a massive room - high ceilings, cathedral windows, archways) and there's a couple of dudes jaming away in the corner on guitars.

I made it, and best of all, so did my back pack and bike. Phew! The flights were very smooth and basically on time. I met some excellent people along the way (and one dunce).


I got the first sign that I was headed in the right direction when I sat down at the gate in Toronto and overhead my first utterance with the endearing Irish accent. Selina and Eddy (yup, you read that right) were heading back home after having spent some time with family in Edmonton. Selina has been to the Tour de France goin' back noaw tirteen years I'd say. What a joy to talk to they both were, and true to the reputation that precedes the Irish, when I came back from a visit to the loo, Eddy had scribed his name, town, and mobile number in case I got stuck for a place. They may be stopping by the old blarney bike blog, so if they do, it was a joy to talk to you both. Best in the future.

Next was Simon, my seat mate. Simon was a trip. I saw in his eyes my first glimpse of genuine Irish passion for a certain brand of stout. We traded stories about the fabled beer, and I told him I can't wait to get my first taste of Guinness IN Ireland (they say it's better than the stuff sold elsewhere). Believe it or not, it hasn't happened yet; despite this early good luck, it's been a difficult day. I feel that the first pint will be a blog post unto itself, so get ready for that one. Did I mention that Simon is expecting a new child this Christmas. He's hoping for a boy, to go along with the three other boys that he has, the oldest having recently completed his third trip around the sun (did I type right, he has three and the oldest is three - one more comin'). Simon was coming home to an empty house having left his wife and kids in Edmonton for a few more days. He's looking forward to the quite days at home. Simon, how was that tea?

The aforementioned dunce was a Budget Rental Car agent. He reeked of cologne that I've later discovered all the males reek of over here. If he hadn't been my first association with it, I probably wouldn't mind it, but now I can't get this turkey out of my mind. It's everywhere. I'll spare you the details, and just mention that my little round of Troubles involved the concept of insurance. I hate insurance. Dunce-boy won't be reading this blog.

Having waited around the airport for some 6 hours (part of the Troubles above), I finally hopped in my car (in the end a bigger car and cheaper rate, btw) and realized just how insane it is to drive in the UK. I'm a fairly confident driver so I didn't think this would be a big deal. At one point I thought I was going to have to pull over to puke. Nervous, Oh my God, crazy. The only think worse than driving on the left hand side of the road is doing so from the right hand side of the car. You have no idea where to point your car nor where others are pointing there. It gets worse. What separated oncoming traffic is a dotted white line (you'd recognize it as a passing lane - which it most certainly isn't). No yellow lines here. Really, picture yourself in your car, driving in a large city, and all of your instincts are now traps to fall into. Right hand on the wheel, shift (oh ya, it's a 5-speed of course) with your left, 1st is away from you, 5th is close, wanna check that rear view - look to the left not right. I'll tell you too that you become very aware of what I'll call drift or leaway to use the sailing term. We all have a pretty good sense when seated on the left of where the right edge of the car is. The first bad habit that you fix is the constant desire to veer to the left not knowing where in the hell the left side of the car ends. I'll end this with the only good thing about driving here. Red means stop, green means go - I have to cling to this familiarity. What's even better is that red is stop, and don't go anywhere until the light turns (no left on red - the equivalent to our right on red). Tomorrow, I get out of this city and in to the country. I can't wait.

Ride you ask - but of course. I did manage to get humpty-dumpty back together and in prime working order, I might add, and yes, I left the freakmobile in the lot and went out to see Dublin by bike - proper thing if there ever was one. I think I would have been quite nervous riding around here if it wasn't for the driving experience.

Before I could go too far, food was a necessity. And what to my wandering Canadian eyes should appear:


I shit you not. I could hear Godbold (with ironic detachment) - we can always go to Timmy's. Frig. And what's worse, they kick my Canadian ass out. Kicked me out! Didn't want my bike in their space. As if I needed another reason to hate Tim Horton's. Sorry Sherry, Selena, and any other addicts out there, but seriously, Tim's is only slightly ahead of Nickelback, Rush, and Bass on my most preferred list.

Anyway, I eventually got some food as you can see and proceeded to get lost and found repeatedly in Dublin City on my bike. Managed to find a bike shop open - not the one I wanted to hit - maybe I'll get there tomorrow.

Ok, that first pint is calling my name - it's not yet midnight, I can still have my first pint on my first day.

I'm booked for tomorrow in Clifden, a town in the Connemara home of the twelve pins (mountains), massive sea cliffs, Ireland's only fjord, and plenty of other stuff for a roadie to devour.

Thanks for listening to my vent back there - I promise to be better, but hey I was in the airport all day and I haven't slept for days (doing ok though on that front, no where near as jet lagged as I was last year in London). And thanks for keeping in touch with all the comments too - keep'em comin'.

S
PS A first Blarney Biker Contest - What is the true identity of the commenter called "Maglia Rosa" - first commenter with the correct answer wins...something that I'll find and bring home. Go.
PSS Maglia Rosa, you're excluded from this little game of chance. Sorry.

15 comments:

  1. Maglia Rosa... Baltzer?

    With all that going on why would you rent a 5 speed? Challenge? Airbags? Who's taking the pictures of you there? The trip sounds like its off to a good start. Keep em coming. Your Blog may serve as incentive for my visit soon, ...maybe - Joff

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  2. hey Maglia Rose...MROD!

    ~K Herman

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  3. Glad to hear your safe and well insured! You may need it.

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  4. I laughed out loud when i saw a Timmys! It's a friggen plague!

    Good to know that your taking the hard core approach and not taking the panniers. You'll enjoy it.

    Oh, and just for kicks, fill your bottles with guiness and see how far that gets you.

    Cliff

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  5. Glad you have arrived safely. Here's hoping you stay that way throughout the trip. Love Mom & Dad

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  6. MROD....I'm mad Kirk beat me. Glad you made it. Hope you had a good ride. I have a meeting in 5 minutes got to go!

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  7. HAHAHA Selena, sorry! Maybe if you would take your mind of that 'track suit'...you could have beaten me to the answer.

    Life is like riding a bicycle - in order to keep your balance, you must keep moving.
    Albert Einstein

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  8. Why did you even go in the "Timmy's"?!?!
    Hi Selena! Hope you're having fun!

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  9. Got your email about the post on my BlackBerry while sitting around with the gang at the Rope Loft (Races were cancelled today - no wind). I attempted to read it out loud to everybody but didn't expect it to be quite that long. (Wow, lots of pent up energy or something??) None the less, a glass was raised in your honour - but none of them Guinness.

    Looks like you're having a blast. Keep up the posting and keep on the right side of the road.

    IWOM

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  10. Kirk they have not let me wear any of my goodies yet. Not until Saturday......we are just common folk over here now.

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  11. Thanks one and all for the banter.

    Sorry Joff, good guess though. I take some pics of myself, the one while eating was taken by a passerby.
    Kirk Wins! Awesome quote to be sure.
    Great to see Cliff's out there and great plan, btw - Guinness in bottle
    Yes, Mom.
    Foxes, you have to know the extend to which I get hungry, that and I wanted to be quick and on the road, which is why they exist, I guess. Don't worry, as soon as I get out into the country, I'll slow down.
    Nice work IWOM, Whoa - canceled race at CRW. Wouldn't it be crazy if the first Race Week I missed gets entirely canceled. :)

    And, Selena, you're never common folk :)

    Off to Cycle Superstore and then Connemara

    S

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  12. Eno, sounds like a great and exciting start to a wonderful trip. The Blarney Biker rides on.

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  13. Enjoyed the chat too - helped take the mind off the fact that lots of things on our plane seemed to be broken. Ride on. Simon.

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  14. Shane what size cycling jersey and shorts to you take.......reply ASAP.

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Thanks for commenting!