It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.

--Ernest Hemingway

The Plan

I am not a 'touring cyclist' - not that there's anything wrong with touring cyclists. I consider myself to be a 'roadie'--if it can't fit into a jersey pocket, then it doesn't come along for the ride. So when you picture me biking in Ireland don't think about panniers and saddle bags and back packs. There will be no tents, sleeping bags nor camp stoves anywhere near my bike.

The plan is to rent a car so that I can drive about the island and ride in much the same way that I would at home. If all goes according to the vision, my life over the next 14 days will fall into the following routine: drive to an area, ride, hike, eat massive amounts of food, drink Guinness (amounts may vary), sleep, repeat.

The idea for this trip is to be fairly flexible; it'll be a bit by the seat of my bib shorts. Here's the best I can do for an itinerary:

> Fly into Dublin on Aug 13
> Connemara (northwest of Galway)
>Inishmore (the largest of the Aran Islands)
>The Burren and the fabled Cliffs of Moher
>The Dingle Peninsula
>The Iveragh Peninsula (Ring of Kerry)
>The Beara Peninsula
>Fly out of Dublin on Aug 28

I've perhaps saved the BEST FOR LAST! From Aug 21-23, I'll be following the three-day Tour of Ireland. I'll watch Stage 1 on the Category One Mount Leinster climb, take in Stage 2 on The Vee, a Cat. 2 climb and watch the last stage in Cork which finishes with a with three-loop city street circuit including the 23% gradient climb of St. Patrick's Hill.

Oh, almost forgot to mention that seven-time Tour de France Champ LANCE ARMSTRONG and 10-time TdeF stage winner MARK CAVENDISH will be riding the Tour of Ireland. It doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

So come back to this little blog often to read about my adventures with my bike on the Emerald Isle. And please, if you're reading this stuff, leave me a comment; it's nice to know that people are out there checking this stuff out.

Saturday, August 15, 2009

The Connemara

Hey folks,

Well, I had in mind to write to you about a bunch of stuff, but then I woke up in the Connemara this morning and went for a bike ride - two bike rides actually - and now, I can barely remember the other mumbo-jumbo. A few quick hits from the last couple of days:

  • I've settled down behind the wheel, so you can all join me in a sigh of relief. It's like when I get see sick and I figure the end of the world is eminent, then after 24-48 hrs you get sae legs and you're good. Same deal, I've got the rhythm - ever vigilant, but I no longer feel like a head-on is impossible to avoid. One last observation about driving. So I'm driving along the motorway - a six laner - and this bus comes charging up my ass, and I'm thinkin' what's this guy's deal, I pull into a different lane and he passes me. This is how I came to realize that by virtue of the whole opposite side of the road thing, the slow highway drivers are actually in the left and the passers are on the right. This is something that I will not get used to - every time I'm passed (in the left lane) I feel like they're going to give me the finger and be all ticked at me, but I'm actually doing the right thing.
  • Check out HEAVEN for a roadie. This is a video tour of the bike shop that I went to in Dublin yesterday. It's called the Cycle Superstore - picture a store the size of Zellers totally dedicated to cycling. Go to the link by clicking here and scroll down to the vid:
  • When I finally got the courage to turn on the radio in the car (yes, people, it was that bad), I heard Dreams by the Cranberries - euphoria began to set in.
  • Guinness is to Ireland as gelato is to Italy - I had a rule in Italy - gelato everyday, no exceptions. After one dry day in Dublin, I think I may be falling into the same rule here only with Guinness.
  • Speaking of Guinness, I had my first official pint in Ireland last night at EJ King's Pub in Clifden. I took pictures, but to be honest, they suck; so here's a pic of the pint that I'm drinking right now. Beautiful, isn't it?


I did catch some good traditional music last night - same stuff you can here in NS, but somehow it's more authentic - atmosphere, setting, product consumed mean so much.



The dude on the right is actually from Newfoundland - how's that for authentic? I learned this as I was explaining to a nice Welsh couple that I am from Nova Scotia. As I'm doing so, doesn't the band break into Farewell to NS - whoa! I start singing along, the performer says, "I think we have a Nova Scotian in the house," then he tells me (over the mic) that he was born in St. John's and that he actually feels a bit like singing "I's the buy"; so of course I started him off and together we belted out the familiar refrain.

Ok enough bull crap - get to the riding!

Absolutely awe inspiring riding over here. For a rainy country, the sun made a rare appearance in the Connemara today. So after a first cup of coffee, I left Clifden on the coastal road to Roundstone then looped back across a sheep infested, narrow road cut through a bog (the Connemara is known for it's unique blend of mountainous and boggy terrain). The coastal road was a downwind party, then I worked hard against it getting back into Clifden. The only time the smile left my face was when my jaw would drop in response to yet another vista. Hopefully the pics can give you a bit of a sense for it.

A happy soul!

Beach on the way to Roundstone

More happy souls!

Ok, so the Roundstone Loop was a 45k ride. Back in Clifden, I fueled up on a chicken panini and coffee, then made for the Sky Road, this time heading west out of Clifden. The Sky Road is aptly named; basically it's a loop out a peninsula that juts out into the Atlantic (as peninsulas do) with an upper section involving some decent climbs and affording ridiculous views of the seascape down below and a lower section where you loop back east to Clifden down in those views that you enjoyed on the way out. It's a 25k loop so, I got 70 in for the day. As I was riding and taking in view after view, I kept screaming in my head (but a few times out loud) a quote that at least two people reading this blog will recognize - "Unreal, bra!" Check the pics.


Views from the upper Sky Road (check that road out!)

At the end of the Sky Road, I met this guy, Michael, leaning on his stone fence. I had to engage him in conversation. Interesting cat, been to Canada (Toronto, poor guy). Check him out - what a happy existence. This his house. What would you pay for such a piece of land in Lunenburg Co? I can assure you, he paid much less for this.


Alright, I'll end it there with still so many things that I feel are being left out. One of my roommates tonight has been to Indian Point. That's crazy! I haven't told you about the sent of turf fires, nor that I actually held in my hands a piece of turf - I've wanted a closer look at this stuff ever since I knew it existed - wicked!

Thanks for checking in with the Blarney Biker. Tomorrow it's out of Clifden and I'm on a ferry to Inishmore (the largest of the Aran Islands) then to Doolin in The Burren tomorrow night where a ride to the famous Cliffs of Moher will await me on Monday morning - what a way to start the week.

Eno

PS Second BB (stands for Blarney Biker) Contest: Name the movie that was quoted in this post. Hint: the character who frequently uttered it was known as "Turtle". Come on now, there's two of you and you know who you are.

PSS Forgot to mention the there's a 100 mile Ultra marathon taking place here today - finishing in about an hour - gonna go check them out.

6 comments:

  1. Yes, YES! As I was sifting through your pictures, I thought the same thing about the road; there is something particularly enticing, magical even, about it. Must be the lack of yellow and white lines, traffic, and abundance of sheep and cliffs.

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  2. I am not one of the 2 that can wint he contest today. By the way what do the winners win. We had a great opening ceremonies today. Really amazing. Made my way on TSN....the nights highlights. Hee hee. Just joking. Practices and games start tomorrow. Keep on having fun! Who is BrokenToe'd One?? I guess I can make a contest too. Whoever knows who is the Broken Toe'd One gets a pin from the Canada Games.......at least I give prizes. Hee hee!

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  3. Hi Shane and Selena, We just got back from the weekend in PEI. Stayed in a nice cottage in Stanhope. We saw you Selena in your stretch Limo. I said there goes Selena. We saw Julie and Julia the other night was it ever good. But gee whiz Shane sounds like you are having a great time running into Maritimers. Shane Keep blogging and Ride Safe! Love Mom & Dad

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  4. You be carefull bra, She go lo lo all over you. - North Shore

    Joff

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  5. Wondering if Shane fell of the Cliffs or has found a Galloway girl. Hee hee! Went to Womens Triathlon this morning, the female soccer won 4-1 to NB, Female Bball beat Quebec and the male Bball team is having a great tournament. I got to see Marcus play today. Lots of fun. Getting physio on the knee tonight after the Rugby boys are finished. Hoping the swelling will go down..dancing on it last night didn't help. Hope everything is going ok. I'm getting a little worried.
    Love Selena

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  6. So I go away for the weekend and I miss the North Shore reference! Damn! Looking forward to the live re-enactment of Irish pub songs...

    Heather

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Thanks for commenting!