It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.

--Ernest Hemingway

The Plan

I am not a 'touring cyclist' - not that there's anything wrong with touring cyclists. I consider myself to be a 'roadie'--if it can't fit into a jersey pocket, then it doesn't come along for the ride. So when you picture me biking in Ireland don't think about panniers and saddle bags and back packs. There will be no tents, sleeping bags nor camp stoves anywhere near my bike.

The plan is to rent a car so that I can drive about the island and ride in much the same way that I would at home. If all goes according to the vision, my life over the next 14 days will fall into the following routine: drive to an area, ride, hike, eat massive amounts of food, drink Guinness (amounts may vary), sleep, repeat.

The idea for this trip is to be fairly flexible; it'll be a bit by the seat of my bib shorts. Here's the best I can do for an itinerary:

> Fly into Dublin on Aug 13
> Connemara (northwest of Galway)
>Inishmore (the largest of the Aran Islands)
>The Burren and the fabled Cliffs of Moher
>The Dingle Peninsula
>The Iveragh Peninsula (Ring of Kerry)
>The Beara Peninsula
>Fly out of Dublin on Aug 28

I've perhaps saved the BEST FOR LAST! From Aug 21-23, I'll be following the three-day Tour of Ireland. I'll watch Stage 1 on the Category One Mount Leinster climb, take in Stage 2 on The Vee, a Cat. 2 climb and watch the last stage in Cork which finishes with a with three-loop city street circuit including the 23% gradient climb of St. Patrick's Hill.

Oh, almost forgot to mention that seven-time Tour de France Champ LANCE ARMSTRONG and 10-time TdeF stage winner MARK CAVENDISH will be riding the Tour of Ireland. It doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

So come back to this little blog often to read about my adventures with my bike on the Emerald Isle. And please, if you're reading this stuff, leave me a comment; it's nice to know that people are out there checking this stuff out.

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Inishmore (Aran Islands)

Ok, I'm going to try to make this one a quick one--I'm pretty exhausted.

Another killer day of blarney bikin' was had, this time on Inishmore, the largest of the three Aran Islands. These islands are at the mouth of Galway Bay and completely exposed to the Western Atlantic. The cliffs on the south side rise 300 meters out of the sea.

Culturally, it's like this: Inishmore, by virtue of its relative isolation from the main island (Ireland), is a microcosm of the Celtic lifestyle. I rode it from one end to the other all through the quilt like patchwork that's formed by the endless meandering stone frences. Without question, the highlight was Dun Aengus Fort. Dun Aengus is (was actually) a circular fort made up of stone walls built in 1100 BC (that's BC - like 3000 years ago people). Now it's a semicircle fort, the seaward half of it having been eroded by 3000 years worth of bounding North Atlantic waves. (Did you know that you can click on these pics to see them full size - I just figured that out last night - try it, it does them more justice, I think.)




One tale of woe. On the way back to the ferry terminal end of the island, I lost my tarmac. That is, the pavement turned in to jagged rock. I made it back to a paved road, and made my ferry (as is always the case with ferry rides, it's a race to make them on time). I was so worried I'd flat and have to do a lightning fast change.

Some honorable mentions in terms of fellow travelers that I met today on the island. First I met this lovely guy from France (his name escapes me). He was traveling as part of a big group of very spunky people who seemed to be more that happy about spending their time on the road in Ireland. I first took notice of him because he was wearing a Tour de France back pack, so of course, I engaged him in conversation in hopes that I could convince him to trade me for my Liverpool Privateer 5-Milers bag - no such luck. I met him on the ferry ride over (which is a blog post in itself - so much to share!), then as it turned out, we met up again on the ferry ride back across. Bonne vacanes, mon ami!




Check the ferry ride (you can see my buddy with this pack on the port quarter by the bike)

Then there was Sharon. So, I ask this random person if she'd take a pic of me at Dun Aengus, and she says, OMG, you were on my flight over from Toronto, and indeed I was. We spend some time taking photos and walked back down the hill (to the bike (me)/bus (her)) together. It was so much fun to share experiences with a fellow Canadian; we were speaking the same language. She's a teacher and is on a deferred salary year right now. She plans to continue her traveling in Cape Town, South Africa, the Trinidad (the country of her birth), and then the Philippines. I don't think I left anything out. Man, Selena and I have to get on deferred salary!



I'll leave you with a few other notable pics:


At the seaward end of Inishmore


Bubbles' Celtic Mansion??

This is not the paved road I'm looking for...


And for the sailors among us, in Galway I happened by the Green Dragon, the Irish entry in the Volvo Ocean Race Boat

This has got to be a typo...
:)


So, I'm in Doolin for the Burren (hilly limestone, Karst terrain) and The Cliffs of Moher. I'd say the big climb on this leg of the journey will be "Corkscrew Hill". I had to drive it on the way here--like a mini Alpe d'Huez with all the switchbacks.

Thanks for tuning in.

Emo

10 comments:

  1. ". . . And I like it too."

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  2. YOu are doing great on the self timer button for the camera. Great shots today. Tamara, Chris and the kids are coming tomorrow so it will be fun to see them.

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  3. That ferry may have been an over-sized speedboat.

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  4. Glad you enjoyed our island . Take care on the road. Don't forget,be it ever so humble, every mans home is his castle

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  5. Looking epic!! the phot of the timmy's at YHZ is classic, i hope the cuppa joe is better. so, whats the km count? the guinness count?
    TJ

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  6. Great photos and stories, Shane. Isn't cycling the best way to really 'see' a place? Have a pint for me - safe journeys!

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  7. Utah... Give me two!

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  8. Hi Shane, We are enjoying your trip. We've been having a good ride in Cape Breton. weather has been very good - hot. Take Care Love Mom & Dad

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  9. Trip looks amazing!!! Andrea and I are enjoying reading your blog. Keep drinking the Guinness.

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  10. Holy frig man, this trip looks awesome. The Worden-Rogers showed this to me. I'm so jealous. Right after reading it I took mr.merckx (my bike :P) out for a spin and tried to imagine what Ireland would be like, but I live in farmtown-central, so the lovely smell of cow dung ruined it. I am definitely doing this some day.

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